Posts
Friday, December 24, 2010
Wood Carving: So You Want to Be a Wood Carver
Wood carving is a special craft. It requires extreme patience that could flourish with a fine imagination. If you decide to become a wood carver, you'll have several styles to choose from. You could use just a piece of wood and a small knife. Or you could go so far as using power tools. So how can you know which style is best for you?
There are five main styles of woodcarving. Each style is distinctly different from the other. These styles are whittling, chip carving, relief carving, intaglio carving and carving in the round.
Whittling. Whittling involves the removal of pare shavings or bits of wood with a cutting blade. It is the simplest form of wood carving, but not actually the art of wood carving. This is a significant distinction because whittling is, and should always be, very simple. All you need is a piece of wood and a knife and you're set to go. And because it is so simple, whittled objects don't have much detail, as is the case in all other styles of wood carving.
When you're holding a whittled object in your hand, you absolutely know it. You can plainly see each knife stroke. It remains as simple as when it began centuries ago, during the time of cavemen. Isn't that amazing?
Chip Carving. Chip carving involves the use of several knives to remove small pieces of wood (chips) from a flat wood surface. These are specially made chip knives that are used to push or pull at the wood, cutting upwards or downwards to free each chip.
Chip carving has expanded to become its own art form. The main technique is to chip varying triangular shapes from the wood. This is done in a way that creates intricately detailed patterns that are often geometric in nature. Free form lines are regularly used to accentuate these chipped patterns. You could really let your imagination go.
Relief Carving. This type of carving is done on a flat back cut of wood with images cut in 3-dimensional fashion. These are the wood carvings you see on walls or sitting on tables or surface tops.
There are two types of relief carving. A low relief carving is identifiable by the visual effect that is created. Without shadows to imply deep carving, the product appears very shallow and is thus considered low relief. In high relief carvings, a spectacular depth effect is created by the addition of shadows throughout. Both types result in carvings with good dimension and detail. The end product is polished to create a very smooth surface. Then it may be painted, waxed or varnished.
Intaglio Carving. This style of wood carving is very similar to relief carving. But instead of looking as though it is above the wood surface, it looks as if it is part of the wood. This is because the design is actually carved deep into the wood, below the surface. Think of old wooden rolling pins. Remember the cute little pictures that were carved into it? That's intaglio carving.
Intaglio carving has been very popular with furniture makers. It has come so far as to be fitted for a blank space, carved separately and then inserted into the furniture. How about that? It can even be found in dining tables and in bedroom furniture. It's wonderful for wood paneling. You can even see it in specialty plaques, as part of an existing decorative item or as the actual surface of coffee tables and end tables.
Carving In The Round. This is the most advanced style of wood carving. It involves a completely detailed carving that can be viewed from all sides. It is carved out of the wood and its base serves as a supporting platform or as a pedestal. The carving could be a person, an animal or a landscape-nearly anything you can imagine. It could be life-sized or to scale. The sky is almost the limit with carving in the round.
This style of carving requires quite a number of tools. A variety of knives, gouges and chisels are a bare minimum. The use of power tools is not surprising and often expected. The final product then is usually quite spectacular. Oftentimes, a product of carving in the round is easily mistaken for a porcelain creation. The details are that impressive.
Wood carving has been around since the days of cavemen. With time, it has become quite an impressive art to behold. It's very relaxing, often exhilarating and extremely satisfying. If you're looking for a hobby, wood carving could be just what you're looking for.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/art-and-entertainment-articles/wood-carving-so-you-want-to-be-a-wood-carver-585194.html"
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
The Arts and Crafts Styled Kitchen
Kitchens today are more than form and function. A properly designed kitchen can add great style to your whole home. But what style to go with may be your question. While there are a handful of styles to choose from, one that has remained popular through the decades is the Arts and Crafts styled kitchen.
What would you expect to see in an Arts and Crafts kitchen? The Arts and Crafts movement was based on form and function, therefore such kitchens emphasize natural colors, rich woods, clean strong lines and light. For a kitchen to appear Arts and Crafts it may have recessed panel doors with thick frames, contrast in finishes of wood, stained glass windows and lighting fixtures, and mullioned glass doors.
Arts and Crafts kitchens look similar to Shaker, Prairie or Mission style kitchens. Woods used for both include maple, birch, beech or oak. Most important is the use of wood. Rich dark woods, distinctive styles utilized from wood along with styled cabinets is important.
To understand the Arts and Crafts look is to understand the style. Arts and Crafts has also been called Mission, Stickley, Prairie or even Frank Lloyd Wright. The design started around 1900 as a backlash against the ornate style prior to 1900. People wanted a design that was more functional and furnishings that were better built. An emphasis on quality craftsmanship was important. Cabinetry was constructed with mortise and tenon, dovetail joinery, and of solid hardwoods.
The movement of Arts and Crafts was not limited to the United States, matter-of-fact it was quite international and is said to have started in England. Artists and craftsmen such as William Morris and Gustav Stickley became notorious with the movement. The Arts and Crafts style spread from England to Europe and then North America. The writings of John Ruskin influenced the movement. Ruskin emphasized the belief that art communicated an understanding of nature and rejected mechanization and standardization. He advocated the value of an organic relationship between worker and his natural environment. At this time, industrialization was destroying the world of craft labor.
With this, style became more simple and straightforward. Decoration was limited, especially if it was superfluous. Patterns imitated British flora and fauna. Architects drew on the vernacular of an area for design. Many architects were influenced by traditions of the British countryside. Designers stepped up to meet the demand and began hosting workshops reviving old craftsmanship techniques.
The Arts and Crafts style also stemmed from a reaction of style against things shown in the Great Exhibition of 1851. This exhibition took place in The Crystal Palace in England and was to display examples of the latest technology developed in the Industrial Revolution. The Great Exhibition of 1851 had more than 14,000 exhibitors from around the world. Artists, philosophers and writers alike critiqued the styles shown stating it was too ornamental. Art historian Nikolaus Pevsner even stated, the Great Exhibition showed ‘vulgarity in detail.'
With all of this combined, it wasn't long before the Arts and Crafts ideals were influencing architecture, sculpture, paintings, illustration, book making, photography, domestic design and decorative arts Decorative arts included furniture, woodwork, stained glass, leatherwork, lacemaking, embroidery, rug making, jewelry and metalwork, enameling and ceramics.
The Arts and Crafts kitchen, even of today, still reflects these ideals. If you are somebody who enjoys the practicality of craftsmanship and the look of straight-lines, this style of kitchen may be for you.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/kitchens-articles/the-arts-and-crafts-styled-kitchen-3604080.html"
What would you expect to see in an Arts and Crafts kitchen? The Arts and Crafts movement was based on form and function, therefore such kitchens emphasize natural colors, rich woods, clean strong lines and light. For a kitchen to appear Arts and Crafts it may have recessed panel doors with thick frames, contrast in finishes of wood, stained glass windows and lighting fixtures, and mullioned glass doors.
Arts and Crafts kitchens look similar to Shaker, Prairie or Mission style kitchens. Woods used for both include maple, birch, beech or oak. Most important is the use of wood. Rich dark woods, distinctive styles utilized from wood along with styled cabinets is important.
To understand the Arts and Crafts look is to understand the style. Arts and Crafts has also been called Mission, Stickley, Prairie or even Frank Lloyd Wright. The design started around 1900 as a backlash against the ornate style prior to 1900. People wanted a design that was more functional and furnishings that were better built. An emphasis on quality craftsmanship was important. Cabinetry was constructed with mortise and tenon, dovetail joinery, and of solid hardwoods.
The movement of Arts and Crafts was not limited to the United States, matter-of-fact it was quite international and is said to have started in England. Artists and craftsmen such as William Morris and Gustav Stickley became notorious with the movement. The Arts and Crafts style spread from England to Europe and then North America. The writings of John Ruskin influenced the movement. Ruskin emphasized the belief that art communicated an understanding of nature and rejected mechanization and standardization. He advocated the value of an organic relationship between worker and his natural environment. At this time, industrialization was destroying the world of craft labor.
With this, style became more simple and straightforward. Decoration was limited, especially if it was superfluous. Patterns imitated British flora and fauna. Architects drew on the vernacular of an area for design. Many architects were influenced by traditions of the British countryside. Designers stepped up to meet the demand and began hosting workshops reviving old craftsmanship techniques.
The Arts and Crafts style also stemmed from a reaction of style against things shown in the Great Exhibition of 1851. This exhibition took place in The Crystal Palace in England and was to display examples of the latest technology developed in the Industrial Revolution. The Great Exhibition of 1851 had more than 14,000 exhibitors from around the world. Artists, philosophers and writers alike critiqued the styles shown stating it was too ornamental. Art historian Nikolaus Pevsner even stated, the Great Exhibition showed ‘vulgarity in detail.'
With all of this combined, it wasn't long before the Arts and Crafts ideals were influencing architecture, sculpture, paintings, illustration, book making, photography, domestic design and decorative arts Decorative arts included furniture, woodwork, stained glass, leatherwork, lacemaking, embroidery, rug making, jewelry and metalwork, enameling and ceramics.
The Arts and Crafts kitchen, even of today, still reflects these ideals. If you are somebody who enjoys the practicality of craftsmanship and the look of straight-lines, this style of kitchen may be for you.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/kitchens-articles/the-arts-and-crafts-styled-kitchen-3604080.html"
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Wood Finishing And Painting
Changes in the art of wood-finishing has come about through the rapid progress in the development of quick-drying, very permanent, nitrocellulose lacquers which are new finishes derived from the realm of magic and mystery.
Present-day lacquers contain varnish-gums in addition to nitrocellulose, and dry so quickly that they are practically dust-proof; yet they set slowly enough so that they can be applied with little training by use of either a brush or a spray-gun.
The student wood-finisher in the school, the arts and crafts painter in the home who wishes to refinish old furniture, door toppers, or woodwork, and the professional painter will all find new and helpful hints and much practical information about lacquer and its use.
While it is true that the emphasis has been placed on new materials and processes, mention should be made of the fact that the entire field of wood-finishing, including wood-filling, shellacking, and enameling has changed.
Many microscopic studies have been made of the reaction of various finishes, especially wood-fillers, in the pores of several kinds of wood. Many technical difficulties were encountered in attempts to prepare photomicrographs of wood filler in the pores of wood, but nevertheless some interesting information was secured.
Some new and very valuable paint-pigments, such as lithophone, titanox, and "extenders," such as asbestine, are now used rather extensively in the paint trade since they were developed. For many purposes these new materials can be used to advantage. The person who applies paint at the present time has a wide field to choose from in selecting pigments, extenders, colors, drying-oils, and thinners, and needs information about these materials.
Another very fundamental characteristic of wood-finishing is that it is treated as a science as well as an art. It is for this reason that a rich background of related science is given in connection with the descriptions of the materials and the methods of using them.
The chemical formulas of the substances described are usually given, and some of the chemical and physical reactions of the materials are pointed out for the benefit of the amateur, the apprentice, or the master painter who may lack a thorough scientific background for his trade.
Experts gather information about wood finishing with meticulous care through visits to some of the best paint, varnish, and lacquer factories in the United States in order to obtain up-to-date, reliable information. A very careful study has also been made of the writings of scientists on this subject, on everything from finishing wooden bar rails to wood fireplace inserts.
In the industrial-arts departments of schools, wood-finishing and painting have often been taught in connection with woodworking, but at present there is a strong tendency toward the establishment of separate courses in which the informational aspect of wood-finishing and painting can receive proper attention.
The industrial-arts departments of 30 years ago gave little attention to wood-finishing, and attempts were made to finish articles in dusty woodworking shops; now separate rooms, after the universal practice of industry, will be found in all schools where serious work in wood-finishing is done.
The science and art of wood-finishing can be more clearly understood through a study of wood as a material. There is a book entitled "Wood and Lumber" which can be used to advantage in schools when related information and a scientific background are desired in order to give a more intellectual trend to shop work which may be too largely manual or manipulative to be educational and vocational in the best sense.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/education-articles/wood-finishing-and-painting-1206047.html"
Present-day lacquers contain varnish-gums in addition to nitrocellulose, and dry so quickly that they are practically dust-proof; yet they set slowly enough so that they can be applied with little training by use of either a brush or a spray-gun.
The student wood-finisher in the school, the arts and crafts painter in the home who wishes to refinish old furniture, door toppers, or woodwork, and the professional painter will all find new and helpful hints and much practical information about lacquer and its use.
While it is true that the emphasis has been placed on new materials and processes, mention should be made of the fact that the entire field of wood-finishing, including wood-filling, shellacking, and enameling has changed.
Many microscopic studies have been made of the reaction of various finishes, especially wood-fillers, in the pores of several kinds of wood. Many technical difficulties were encountered in attempts to prepare photomicrographs of wood filler in the pores of wood, but nevertheless some interesting information was secured.
Some new and very valuable paint-pigments, such as lithophone, titanox, and "extenders," such as asbestine, are now used rather extensively in the paint trade since they were developed. For many purposes these new materials can be used to advantage. The person who applies paint at the present time has a wide field to choose from in selecting pigments, extenders, colors, drying-oils, and thinners, and needs information about these materials.
Another very fundamental characteristic of wood-finishing is that it is treated as a science as well as an art. It is for this reason that a rich background of related science is given in connection with the descriptions of the materials and the methods of using them.
The chemical formulas of the substances described are usually given, and some of the chemical and physical reactions of the materials are pointed out for the benefit of the amateur, the apprentice, or the master painter who may lack a thorough scientific background for his trade.
Experts gather information about wood finishing with meticulous care through visits to some of the best paint, varnish, and lacquer factories in the United States in order to obtain up-to-date, reliable information. A very careful study has also been made of the writings of scientists on this subject, on everything from finishing wooden bar rails to wood fireplace inserts.
In the industrial-arts departments of schools, wood-finishing and painting have often been taught in connection with woodworking, but at present there is a strong tendency toward the establishment of separate courses in which the informational aspect of wood-finishing and painting can receive proper attention.
The industrial-arts departments of 30 years ago gave little attention to wood-finishing, and attempts were made to finish articles in dusty woodworking shops; now separate rooms, after the universal practice of industry, will be found in all schools where serious work in wood-finishing is done.
The science and art of wood-finishing can be more clearly understood through a study of wood as a material. There is a book entitled "Wood and Lumber" which can be used to advantage in schools when related information and a scientific background are desired in order to give a more intellectual trend to shop work which may be too largely manual or manipulative to be educational and vocational in the best sense.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/education-articles/wood-finishing-and-painting-1206047.html"
Monday, November 29, 2010
How Many Different Rubberstamps are There in the Big World of Art Stamps?
For me it all started with these rubberstamps. That's right this cute little butterfly art stamp and this set of alphabet stamps.
I can remember my first rubberstamps. My brother gave them to me for my birthday. It was a butterfly art stamp, and an alphabet stamp set, that was 15 years ago. I can remember thinking to myself "what am I going to do with these rubberstamps"? Boy did I find out what to do with them. I made cute little butterfly note cards and I remember coloring them with a colored pencil (since that is all that I had back then or crayons), then with the alphabet stamps I stamped my family and friends name and of course finished it with a butterfly. Holy crow, he is the one that created my obsession with art stamps, and I am so happy that he did, thanks Mike.
What can I say; I Love Rubber Art Stamps and all the rubber stamping supplies that go along with them. Take a look at just some of the art stamps that I have. I have labeled each drawer and bin so I kind of know what is inside. I also have a few scattered around my craft studio on shelves. I told you that I Love Art Stamps. Now do you believe me?
Rubberstamps have come a long way. There are a ton of manufacturers for Art Stamps, depending on what you are looking for. A long time ago the only kind of art stamp that was available was the red rubber stamp mounted on a wood block. Now, those stamps are still available but there are also clear un-mounted art stamps that you take off of a cling sheet and adhere to an acrylic block. When you are done you just clean the stamp and take off the acrylic block and out back on the plastic sheet or in a clear plastic CD case.
The great thing about these art stamps is that you can see exactly where your image will be stamped on your card stock. This gives you less room for error (even though there is never an error in art, it just makes a different masterpiece then you expected)
What I love about the acrylic block rubber stamps is when you are working with alphabet stamps. The reason is you can have the correct spacing between each letter and word. When I have used alphabet stamps that were wood mounted, I usually had crooked words and phrases on my card or scrapbook page.
Another cool thing about these clear un-mounted rubberstamps is that they do not take up so much room as the original wood block art stamps. So if you do not have a lot of space to store your rubberstamps then this is the ideal way to go. I have two ways that I store my clear un-mounted rubberstamps. One is in a 3 ring binder, and the other in my Crop in Style Stamp Store tote. The stamp store can hold hundreds in the drawers.
There are also red rubber un-mounted stamps that you can purchase. They are cheaper than mounted rubberstamps. You can then mount them any way that you want; either on a wood block or use the ez-mount foam system (I will explain that in a near future article)
The last kind of rubberstamps that I can think of is the pre-inked art stamps. I have some art stamps that are pre-inked wheels. They are great for backgrounds or borders. All you do is insert the small cartridge of ink into the handle of the rubberstamps wheel, insert the wheel and away you go.
Well, as you can see I have A LOT of rubberstamps. And with all these Art Stamps I do not have any duplicates and I can honestly say that I use or have used each and every one.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/crafts-articles/how-many-different-rubberstamps-are-there-in-the-big-world-of-art-stamps-1104386.html"
I can remember my first rubberstamps. My brother gave them to me for my birthday. It was a butterfly art stamp, and an alphabet stamp set, that was 15 years ago. I can remember thinking to myself "what am I going to do with these rubberstamps"? Boy did I find out what to do with them. I made cute little butterfly note cards and I remember coloring them with a colored pencil (since that is all that I had back then or crayons), then with the alphabet stamps I stamped my family and friends name and of course finished it with a butterfly. Holy crow, he is the one that created my obsession with art stamps, and I am so happy that he did, thanks Mike.
What can I say; I Love Rubber Art Stamps and all the rubber stamping supplies that go along with them. Take a look at just some of the art stamps that I have. I have labeled each drawer and bin so I kind of know what is inside. I also have a few scattered around my craft studio on shelves. I told you that I Love Art Stamps. Now do you believe me?
Rubberstamps have come a long way. There are a ton of manufacturers for Art Stamps, depending on what you are looking for. A long time ago the only kind of art stamp that was available was the red rubber stamp mounted on a wood block. Now, those stamps are still available but there are also clear un-mounted art stamps that you take off of a cling sheet and adhere to an acrylic block. When you are done you just clean the stamp and take off the acrylic block and out back on the plastic sheet or in a clear plastic CD case.
The great thing about these art stamps is that you can see exactly where your image will be stamped on your card stock. This gives you less room for error (even though there is never an error in art, it just makes a different masterpiece then you expected)
What I love about the acrylic block rubber stamps is when you are working with alphabet stamps. The reason is you can have the correct spacing between each letter and word. When I have used alphabet stamps that were wood mounted, I usually had crooked words and phrases on my card or scrapbook page.
Another cool thing about these clear un-mounted rubberstamps is that they do not take up so much room as the original wood block art stamps. So if you do not have a lot of space to store your rubberstamps then this is the ideal way to go. I have two ways that I store my clear un-mounted rubberstamps. One is in a 3 ring binder, and the other in my Crop in Style Stamp Store tote. The stamp store can hold hundreds in the drawers.
There are also red rubber un-mounted stamps that you can purchase. They are cheaper than mounted rubberstamps. You can then mount them any way that you want; either on a wood block or use the ez-mount foam system (I will explain that in a near future article)
The last kind of rubberstamps that I can think of is the pre-inked art stamps. I have some art stamps that are pre-inked wheels. They are great for backgrounds or borders. All you do is insert the small cartridge of ink into the handle of the rubberstamps wheel, insert the wheel and away you go.
Well, as you can see I have A LOT of rubberstamps. And with all these Art Stamps I do not have any duplicates and I can honestly say that I use or have used each and every one.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/crafts-articles/how-many-different-rubberstamps-are-there-in-the-big-world-of-art-stamps-1104386.html"
Woodworking Butt Joints Detailed Explanation
OF all the joints used to assemble boards, the butt joint is certainly the most straightforward. Affixing the edge, end, or face of one board to that of another may not always produce the strongest joint. However, a properly reinforced butt joint is an excellent option for dozens of woodworking tasks, from joining smaller boards into a wide panel to assembling carcases and frames.
Visit Woodworking Plans Website for more woodworking tools details.
The simple butt joint contains no interlocking parts, relying instead on the glue bond for its strength. The solidity of that bond is determined by the grain orientation of the mating boards. Gluing long grain to long grain, as in panel, edge,and face-to-face joints, produces a solid connection, requiring no reinforcement. All other butt joints involve end grain; this porous surface provides a much less effective gluing surface than an equivalent area of long grain. Therefore, end grain joints must be reinforced.
Nails and screws can be used for reinforcement, but cabinetmakers try to avoid them for two principal reasons: Additional work is required to conceal the fasteners, and neither does as good a job joining end grain as some of the alternatives. Screws are considered superior for one application, however, and that is the task of fastening a tabletop to its supporting rails. The technique, which involves drilling angled boards.
Most other joinery needs are filled by dowels, compressed-wood wafers or "biscuitsl" or splines, which can also serve to align parts of a joint that do not require reinforcement. Each demands mastery of a specialized technique-but the procedures are simple and they allow the quick assembly of strong, attractive joints in which the mechanical parts can be hidden from view.
At least one butt-joining technique--the butterfly key joint--is not meant to be hidden; in fact it is used as much for decoration as for strength. In this joint a doubledovetail key--the butterfly--is cut from a contrasting wood and used to tie together two edge-joined boards. The butterfly demands patience, but a well-set key can be a striking feature of a tabletop.
At the other end of the form-to-function scale is the use of threaded rods to reinforce such workaday surfaces as butcher blocks, workbenches, and countertops. These are often built up of face-glued stock, and the rods serve to stabilize the heavy slab when room humidity changes.Visit Woodworking Plans TV for more woodworking skills....
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/crafts-articles/woodworking-butt-joints-detailed-explanation-2056833.html"
Visit Woodworking Plans Website for more woodworking tools details.
The simple butt joint contains no interlocking parts, relying instead on the glue bond for its strength. The solidity of that bond is determined by the grain orientation of the mating boards. Gluing long grain to long grain, as in panel, edge,and face-to-face joints, produces a solid connection, requiring no reinforcement. All other butt joints involve end grain; this porous surface provides a much less effective gluing surface than an equivalent area of long grain. Therefore, end grain joints must be reinforced.
Nails and screws can be used for reinforcement, but cabinetmakers try to avoid them for two principal reasons: Additional work is required to conceal the fasteners, and neither does as good a job joining end grain as some of the alternatives. Screws are considered superior for one application, however, and that is the task of fastening a tabletop to its supporting rails. The technique, which involves drilling angled boards.
Most other joinery needs are filled by dowels, compressed-wood wafers or "biscuitsl" or splines, which can also serve to align parts of a joint that do not require reinforcement. Each demands mastery of a specialized technique-but the procedures are simple and they allow the quick assembly of strong, attractive joints in which the mechanical parts can be hidden from view.
At least one butt-joining technique--the butterfly key joint--is not meant to be hidden; in fact it is used as much for decoration as for strength. In this joint a doubledovetail key--the butterfly--is cut from a contrasting wood and used to tie together two edge-joined boards. The butterfly demands patience, but a well-set key can be a striking feature of a tabletop.
At the other end of the form-to-function scale is the use of threaded rods to reinforce such workaday surfaces as butcher blocks, workbenches, and countertops. These are often built up of face-glued stock, and the rods serve to stabilize the heavy slab when room humidity changes.Visit Woodworking Plans TV for more woodworking skills....
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/crafts-articles/woodworking-butt-joints-detailed-explanation-2056833.html"
Mortise And Tenon Joints
Mortise and tenon is one of the oldest and simplest joints around, but it is also one of the strongest. When tested against other joints by Wood Magazine, the mortise and tenon joint took two to three times more force to break than any other joint that they tested. It also took the award for hardest joint to pull apart. Over 4,700 pounds of force were used to pull this joint apart, and it still didn't budge before the wood broke.
The mortise is the female "receiving" end of the joint. A hole is cut partway or all the way through a piece of wood. The tenon is formed on the other piece of wood. The tenon is the male end. It is a tab cut into a piece of wood that fits perfectly into the mortise. This joint joins two pieces of wood at ninety degrees, like a key in a lock.
An open mortise is the same as a bridle joint. A tenon is cut into the end of a board, and a mortise into the other, just like a regular mortise and tenon joint. However, the tenon is cut to be the full length of the end of the board. So, it is more like the tongue of a tongue and groove joint, only cut on two sides. The mortise is more of a slot than a hole. You can use a router or a circular saw to cut the slot and tenon of the open mortise joint.
A stub mortise is a mortise that doesn't go all the way through the board. It is a hole of a specific depth and the tenon is cut to fit into the hole. A through mortise is one that has a mortise that completely goes through the board.
One of the oldest types of mortise and tenon joints is the dovetail joint. This joint is known for its tensile strength and is often used in furniture that will be put through a lot of pushing and pulling. You will most likely see a dovetail joint if you open your dresser drawer and take a look where the front connects with the sides. For this joint, pins are cut in the end of one board. Then tails, or slots, are cut in the end of the other board. The pins and tails are usually cut into a trapezoid shape and glued. No other hardware is needed once the dovetails are glued into place.
There are many types of joints that you can use depending on what you are building. Mortise and tenon joints are great for projects that will need to endure a lot of wear and tear. You can also use dowels for joining boards together. A dowel rod creates a strong joint and can sometimes be easier than some mortise and tenon joints. Consult a woodworking professional or follow professional advice when choosing the best kind of joints for your woodworking projects.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/hobbies-articles/mortise-and-tenon-joints-2086024.html"
The mortise is the female "receiving" end of the joint. A hole is cut partway or all the way through a piece of wood. The tenon is formed on the other piece of wood. The tenon is the male end. It is a tab cut into a piece of wood that fits perfectly into the mortise. This joint joins two pieces of wood at ninety degrees, like a key in a lock.
An open mortise is the same as a bridle joint. A tenon is cut into the end of a board, and a mortise into the other, just like a regular mortise and tenon joint. However, the tenon is cut to be the full length of the end of the board. So, it is more like the tongue of a tongue and groove joint, only cut on two sides. The mortise is more of a slot than a hole. You can use a router or a circular saw to cut the slot and tenon of the open mortise joint.
A stub mortise is a mortise that doesn't go all the way through the board. It is a hole of a specific depth and the tenon is cut to fit into the hole. A through mortise is one that has a mortise that completely goes through the board.
One of the oldest types of mortise and tenon joints is the dovetail joint. This joint is known for its tensile strength and is often used in furniture that will be put through a lot of pushing and pulling. You will most likely see a dovetail joint if you open your dresser drawer and take a look where the front connects with the sides. For this joint, pins are cut in the end of one board. Then tails, or slots, are cut in the end of the other board. The pins and tails are usually cut into a trapezoid shape and glued. No other hardware is needed once the dovetails are glued into place.
There are many types of joints that you can use depending on what you are building. Mortise and tenon joints are great for projects that will need to endure a lot of wear and tear. You can also use dowels for joining boards together. A dowel rod creates a strong joint and can sometimes be easier than some mortise and tenon joints. Consult a woodworking professional or follow professional advice when choosing the best kind of joints for your woodworking projects.
Retrieved from "http://www.articlesbase.com/hobbies-articles/mortise-and-tenon-joints-2086024.html"
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Today, I have a question for you...Do you have your first product online yet? Maybe it's all ready to go, but you just aren't sure about some of the technical aspects. You know, things like,- setting it up to take payments - providing a secure download - putting an affiliate program in place Well, if that sounds like you, I have good news! *The* Instant Commission Marketplace known as RAP Bank now offers a simple service that handles ALL this for you without any expensive scripts. Definitely check this out. I think it could be just what you're looking for...
==> http://tinyurl.com/3ab9cb6
To Your Success,
Neil
==> http://tinyurl.com/3ab9cb6
To Your Success,
Neil
This is important, so make sure you read this short
email right away. My friend Michael Rasmussen has just
released a video today that the entire Internet
marketing community is scrambling to get their hands
on.
*************************************************
If you re in a hurry, just go ahead and take a
look at this web page to see what I m talking
about in this email.
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
*************************************************
I'm serious, people have been eagerly anticipating the
launch of this course for weeks, and now that it's
live, people are practically tripping over each other
to get themselves a copy of this video. Michael uses
these secrets to earn $381,195.06 in only 90 days with
NO product, and there's no reason you can't do the same.
In a nutshell, it teaches you how to build the most
profitable kind of list you can possibly have... a
list of buyers. You need to get your hands on this
training before your competitors start using this
strategy... trust me.
Here's the link. And don't worry, it's cheap and
available instantly:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
Whether you're an affiliate marketer or an established
guru in your industry, you need to use the strategies
that Michael is teaching to take your business to the
next level.
There's no time to waste. Michael is offering a
discount and a fast action bonus for those who buy the
course right away. I strong suggest you grab yours now
before it's too late.
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
email right away. My friend Michael Rasmussen has just
released a video today that the entire Internet
marketing community is scrambling to get their hands
on.
*************************************************
If you re in a hurry, just go ahead and take a
look at this web page to see what I m talking
about in this email.
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
*************************************************
I'm serious, people have been eagerly anticipating the
launch of this course for weeks, and now that it's
live, people are practically tripping over each other
to get themselves a copy of this video. Michael uses
these secrets to earn $381,195.06 in only 90 days with
NO product, and there's no reason you can't do the same.
In a nutshell, it teaches you how to build the most
profitable kind of list you can possibly have... a
list of buyers. You need to get your hands on this
training before your competitors start using this
strategy... trust me.
Here's the link. And don't worry, it's cheap and
available instantly:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
Whether you're an affiliate marketer or an established
guru in your industry, you need to use the strategies
that Michael is teaching to take your business to the
next level.
There's no time to waste. Michael is offering a
discount and a fast action bonus for those who buy the
course right away. I strong suggest you grab yours now
before it's too late.
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
This course will reveal Michael Rasmussen's top ten
strategies for building a list of people who are eager
to buy the products and services that you recommend.
And even better... he'll teach you how to get OTHER
people to build that list for you. It's true! You can
get your competitors to build your list of buyers for
you, and then THANK you for the opportunity to do so
(when you know the secret that makes it work).
It's all covered in Michael's new program (which just
went live today). Go ahead and check out the Get More
Buyers video course today, and see what all the fuss
is about. Here's the URL one more time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
strategies for building a list of people who are eager
to buy the products and services that you recommend.
And even better... he'll teach you how to get OTHER
people to build that list for you. It's true! You can
get your competitors to build your list of buyers for
you, and then THANK you for the opportunity to do so
(when you know the secret that makes it work).
It's all covered in Michael's new program (which just
went live today). Go ahead and check out the Get More
Buyers video course today, and see what all the fuss
is about. Here's the URL one more time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
Just in case this is all brand new to you, here's a
quick rundown of what the Get More Buyers Course is
all about. The main idea behind the course is that
it's a waste of time to build a list of
freebie-seeking subscribers.
The only people on your list who make you any money
are the buyers... the people who are proven to whip
out their credit card and buy products in their areas
of interest.
But How do you build a list of buyers if you're just
starting out? What if you don't have any products to
sell right now? What if you're only interested in
affiliate marketing, but still want to build a list of
hungry buyers?
*************************************************
THE GET MORE BUYERS VIDEO COURSE IS THE ANSWER
*************************************************
This course will reveal Michael Rasmussen's top ten
strategies for building a list of people who are eager
to buy the products and services that you recommend.
And even better... he'll teach you how to get OTHER
people to build that list for you. It's true! You can
get your competitors to build your list of buyers for
you, and then THANK you for the opportunity to do so
(when you know the secret that makes it work).
It's all covered in Michael's new program (which just
went live today). Go ahead and check out the Get More
Buyers video course today, and see what all the fuss
is about. Here's the URL one more time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
quick rundown of what the Get More Buyers Course is
all about. The main idea behind the course is that
it's a waste of time to build a list of
freebie-seeking subscribers.
The only people on your list who make you any money
are the buyers... the people who are proven to whip
out their credit card and buy products in their areas
of interest.
But How do you build a list of buyers if you're just
starting out? What if you don't have any products to
sell right now? What if you're only interested in
affiliate marketing, but still want to build a list of
hungry buyers?
*************************************************
THE GET MORE BUYERS VIDEO COURSE IS THE ANSWER
*************************************************
This course will reveal Michael Rasmussen's top ten
strategies for building a list of people who are eager
to buy the products and services that you recommend.
And even better... he'll teach you how to get OTHER
people to build that list for you. It's true! You can
get your competitors to build your list of buyers for
you, and then THANK you for the opportunity to do so
(when you know the secret that makes it work).
It's all covered in Michael's new program (which just
went live today). Go ahead and check out the Get More
Buyers video course today, and see what all the fuss
is about. Here's the URL one more time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
