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To Your Success,
Neil

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This course will reveal Michael Rasmussen's top ten
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(when you know the secret that makes it work).
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went live today). Go ahead and check out the Get More
Buyers video course today, and see what all the fuss
is about. Here's the URL one more time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq

Just in case this is all brand new to you, here's a
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of interest.
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*************************************************
THE GET MORE BUYERS VIDEO COURSE IS THE ANSWER
*************************************************
This course will reveal Michael Rasmussen's top ten
strategies for building a list of people who are eager
to buy the products and services that you recommend.
And even better... he'll teach you how to get OTHER
people to build that list for you. It's true! You can
get your competitors to build your list of buyers for
you, and then THANK you for the opportunity to do so
(when you know the secret that makes it work).
It's all covered in Michael's new program (which just
went live today). Go ahead and check out the Get More
Buyers video course today, and see what all the fuss
is about. Here's the URL one more time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq
All the best,
P.S. - Make sure you sign up for the free video at the
top of the web page. In the video, Michael will give
you a sneak preview of the course, and show you the
first steps you need to take in order to build a big
list of eager buyers. Here's the URL one last time:
http://tinyurl.com/33uaenq

If you've been following the launch of the Get More
Buyers course, then I have some great news for you.
Today is the big day!
There's no time to waste. If you've been excited at
the possibility of building your own list of eager
buyers, then you owe it to yourself to get this
training.
Plus, if you're an affiliate marketer, this course
will skyrocket your success. Michael earned $381,195.06
in only 90 days with NO product using these strategies
and there's no reason you can't do the same.
NOTE: If you haven't already seen the preview
video on Michael Rasmussen's blog, then don't
worry. I'll fill you in on what Get More Buyers
is just below.
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a guide to fishing tackle

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Just about everyone has longed to try their hand at fishing at one time or another. But like a lot outdoor activities, knowing what supplies to buy can be a challenge. Tackle, lures, knots--the learning curve for a beginning fisherman or woman is a steep one! This article will introduce you to a few of the basic fishing supplies and fish tackle you'll need before you head to your favorite waterway.

There are lots of fishing stores around, but a lot of them might try to sell unneeded fishing supplies to gain a little cash from the fishing novice. Here is a description of some of the fishing tackle you need for any sort of fishing in any location.

Hooks. When it comes to basic fishing supplies, next to the fishing pole, the most important tools are your hooks. In a variety of shape and sizes, the right hook is one of the most important parts of your fishing gear. Fishing hooks are cheap, so you can stock an assortment of hooks for each kind of fishing. Most hooks are shaped like a letter "J."

Rigs. These are utilized for catching different varieties and species of fish. The two most common rigs are the Bobber and Crappie. Bobber rigs are used for catching Bluegills and are suggested for beginners.

Sinkers.
 As the name states, sinkers are used to cast lighter lures and to rapidly drop the bait to the bottom of the water where fish are located. Collectively with the bobbers, the sinkers are used to hold your line at a given point. In angling stores, you will find several varieties of sinkers that come in various sizes, weights, and shapes. The current speed and the water depth determines the weight of the sinkers you will need for your fishing trip.

Bobber.
It is also called a cork or a float. The bobber's function to tell you when a fish bites your bait. The standard bobbers are pencil, slip bobbers and buttons. They are found in different sizes to fit all kinds of baits and sinkers. The best bobbers are those that are smaller. The wind will blow the bobber back to you if it's too light and will scare the fish off when it is too big.

Swivels.
 This kind of fishing equipment is utilized when you are angling with bait such as a spinner or a minnow. This kind of bait may twist and turn, which can leave your line twisted. By attaching the swivel and tying it between your line and bait, it allows the lure to spin around without snarling up the line. Swivels are cheap and are made in different sizes to fit the bait and hooks you use.

Other must-have equipment to purchase include a tackle box to organize your gear and your bait.

The bait may vary depending on the type of fishing you will be doing. Remember that purchasing basic fishing supplies and fish tackle are only the beginning. Having the correct equipment for the ideal location is important, but knowing the art of catching fish is significant to the sport. Always chat with the locals at the lake, river or dock for ideas on what works for them.

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Woodworking Guide Wood Gluing Techniques Detailed Explanation

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In preparing a glue joint, it's important to keep a couple of ground rules in mind. First, while modern glues are amazingly strong, if joints do not fit properly or the glue is not allowed to cure correctly, the bond will almost surely fail. And second, less is more. A thin, even layer of glue will form a strong bond between two pieces of wood, but a thick cushion of glue does just the opposite. It weakens the joint. And, usually you won't know if this joint is weak until the piece is done and has been used for a while.
Visit the Woodworking Plans Website pages for more woodworking articles.

To achieve a successful edge joint, the long mating surfaces must be perfectly tight all along their length. You shouldn't rely on clamps to pull bowed boards together because this places too much stress on the joint and eventually it will fail.
The fit of a mortise-and-tenon joint should also be precise, neither too tight nor too loose. If the parts must be forced together, there will be no room for the glue between the pieces and the joint will be starved. If, on the other hand, there is too much play in the joint, the glue layer will be too thick to perform properly when the piece is placed under stress. In a perfect joint, the glue layer is less than the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper.

In order to guarantee that there is sufficient glue in a joint, spread a thin layer on both mating surfaces. In a mortiseand-tenon joint, this means coating both the mortise and tenon walls with glue. You can use a scrap stick, a small brush or a narrow roller to do this. Just make sure the coverage is complete and even
.
The mating surfaces must also be clean, dry and free of contamination before you spread the glue. Oil, waxes and some chemicals, like silicone, will resist the glue. And dust and water can cause the joint to fail by preventing good contact between wood surfaces, or diluting the strength of the glue.

All glues have a recommended open time, which defines the amount of time you can safely leave the glue exposed to the air before assembling the joint. For most yellow glues, this is about 10 minutes. But the open time will vary with the temperature and humidity of your workroom. Hot, dry conditions will cause the glue to set quicker. In complicated assemblies, where many joints must be prepared at once, it's important to factor the open time limit into the process. 

Sometimes, you'll have to assemble a project by making smaller subassemblies first. Also, keep in mind that yellow glue will not perform well in cold conditions. Most manufacturers recommend that both the room and the wood surfaces be at least 55 degrees F before applying glue.
Once a joint is assembled, it must be clamped together. Clamps serve two purposes. They pull a joint together tightly and hold it in a fixed position while the glue sets. You should not apply tremendous force with your clamps because this will drive too much glue from the joint. Just firmly tighten them and set the assembly aside.

If a proper amount of glue has been spread and a proper amount of force used to tighten the clamps, you should see small beads of glue squeezing out of both sides of the joint. To remove this squeeze-out, allow it to set for about 20 minutes, and then use an old chisel or putty knife to scrape off the excess.
Some people recommend wiping the excess glue off with a damp rag. But this technique should be avoided because it can force glue into the surrounding wood pores–especially with open-grain woods. Unfortunately, this glue will not be apparent until you apply the finish, when it's too late to do anything easily to fix it.

Finally, yellow glue should be allowed to set for at least an hour before you remove the clamps. And a full cure takes at least 24 hours, so don't isturb the assembly until this time has passed.

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Inspect Furniture Joints Before Buying

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After wood the most important factor that determines the quality of furniture is the quality of joints. Good joining can make even average quality wood last really long. On the other hand, the best quality oak could also be rendered useless due to loose fittings.

All furniture is put together in a series of joints. Most structural problems involve joint weakening or failure. The joints used in good wooden furniture, such as Amish furniture, are usually stronger than those in cheap pieces, but age and abuse can take their toll even when the original construction was good.

Knowing the various joints used on a piece of furniture will help you evaluate the quality of a furniture piece before purchase. If you are a DIY type, having the following information will also help you repair them. Furniture bought online should be inspected in detail on delivery. If you buy Amish furniture online, you can be sure of high quality craftsmanship.

Dovetail joints: Dovetail joints consist of wedge-shaped openings, the dovetails, holding matching pins cut in the joining piece. In this joint, the dovetail goes completely through both pieces of wood. The pins in handmade dovetails are usually narrower than the spaces between the pins. In the older days only a few dovetails were used and the tails and pins did not match exactly. With modern equipment, the tails and the pins are exactly the same size and more dovetails are used in each joint.

Mortise-and-tenon joints: In this type of joint, a prong or tongue of wood, the tenon, is secured in a hole, the mortise, in the joining piece. Mortise-and-tenon joints are extremely strong; they're used chiefly in chairs and tables.

Dado joints: A dado is a slot cut into the face or end of a piece of wood; the joining piece fits into this slot. In a simple dado joint, the slot goes completely across the wood, and the edges of the joining piece are visible along the edges of the base piece. Dadoes and stopped dadoes have considerable shear strength and are used chiefly for shelving.

Lapped joints: Lapped joints are cut with both joining pieces notched or slanted to the same depth. Lapped joints offer a large glue area, but they aren't particularly strong. Cross-laps are used to join crossing pieces; half-laps and sloped laps are used to join the ends of long pieces. They're often used in drawer guide framing pieces and may be pinned with nails or screws from the back.

Butt joints: In this type of joint, the joining pieces are simply butted together with no integral fastener. Butt joints are weak and are sometimes fastened or held together with metal surface plates. They are used in chairs, tables, dressers, and cabinet pieces.

Miter joints: In a miter, the joining pieces are cut at a 45-degree angle and joined to form a right angle. Miters are used for decorative molding and for frames. They are very weak and are often reinforced with dowels, spline, or mechanical fasteners. Sometimes triangular glue blocks are used for strength; the blocks may be reinforced by screws.

Doweled joints: The doweled joint is a simple variation of the mortise-and-tenon joint, with dowels instead of a cut tenon holding the joining pieces together. Doweled joints require precision equipment. They are strong and are common in chairs, tables, and cabinets, usually on stretchers and other framing pieces.

Splined joints: In a splined joint, the edges of the joining pieces are grooved or dadoed to match each other and a reinforcing spline is inserted into the grooves to hold the pieces together. Splined joints are used chiefly to join narrow boards.

Rabbet joints: The rabbet is a reinforced butt joint, with one or both joining members notched to fit together. It is usually reinforced with screws or nails. Rabbet joints are easy to make and very strong. They are used chiefly for shelving and at the corners of cabinet pieces.

Drawer construction is generally a good indication of overall furniture quality. Doweled and dovetailed drawer joints indicate a high degree of craftsmanship. However, modern machine technology, good bonding glue and pneumatically driven staples coated with resin have afforded savings in construction while providing durability. The Amish craftsmen who make wholesale Amish furniture take very good care of the quality of the joints. Quality wood furniture purchased today can be used for a lifetime.

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Woodworking Tongue And Dado Joint Detailed Explanation

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We used tongue and dado joints to join the cladding that surrounds the 4x4 posts. As you can see in many projects, there's a tongue on one piece that's formed by cutting a rabbet in the edge. The tongue fits into a dado cut in a mating piece. These interlocking parts form a strong mechanical joint. Plus, the large glue surface of the joint provides additional strength. Visit the Woodworking Plans Website pages for more woodworking articles.

Tongue & Dado Basics — The main goal when creating this joint is to have the tongue fit into the dado with a friction fit — not too tight, but not so loose that the mating pieces can move around. Also, the pieces that are joined together should fit flush with each other on the outside.

Dado Setup — To accomplish these two things, I start by cutting the dado. (For some porch project on page 38,it's a 3 /8"-wide dado, 3 /8" deep.) For that size of dado, it's easy enough to mount the proper size of dado blade in the table saw.
The critical thing, however, is positioning the rip fence to cut this dado. That’s because the fence determines the location of the inside shoulder of the groove. To get a flush-fitting joint, this shoulder has to be set in from the edge of the work piece a distance that matches the thickness of the stock. The easiest way to do this is to use a scrap piece of the cladding material as a thickness gauge for setting the rip fence.

Get in the Groove — With the fence set, cutting the dado is as easy as setting the work piece face down on the table, butting it against the rip fence, and making a pass over the blade. To ensure that the dado is a consistent depth, I mounted a feather board to my rip fence to hold the work piece down on the table. Cut the dado in all four pieces before turning your attention to the rabbets.

Rabbet Setup — Once the grooves are completed, the next step is to cut a rabbet in the opposite edge of each piece to form the tongue. You can use the same width dado blade as for the groove to make the rabbet. Only this time, attach an auxiliary fence to the table saw's rip fence, and set the dado blade so it just grazes the side of this fence. Here, the position of the fence in relation to the blade determines the length of the tongue, which should match the depth of the mating dado.
The other critical dimension here is the depth of cut, as it determines the thickness of the tongue. To get a good fit, run a test piece through the blade. Then test the fit of this tongue in one of the dadoes you've already cut. Adjust the depth of cut accordingly, sneaking up on a perfect fit.

Make the Rabbet — Once you have achieved a nice fit between the tongue and the dado, proceed with cutting the rabbets in all four pieces. Again, use a feather board to hold the work piece down on the table saw during the cut.

Learn More about woodworking how to articles please go to woodworkingplans.tv

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